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The Art of French Eclairs

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While I’m still transiting the learning curve I wanted to share my learnings about this “art”, and I call it like that because it is one of the things that for me was not straight forward to learn. For some pastries following the recipe is enough, but Eclairs, Macarons and other french pastries are intricate enough to make me try to bake them again and again trying to find the perfect recipe.

Being honest, the complicated thing about Eclairs is just its base, the Choux Paste. I remember when we first learnt how to make it when I was at Pastry school, I was terrified about it. It was one of the things that made people fail their exams. “Your dough is raw”, “The eggs cooked while beating”, “You didn’t add enough eggs”, “it was too runny”: were some of the phrases we used to hear. With some time you end up learning that there is a way to measure all those variables and make your recipe much better.


 

 

The Basics

First thing first, what are the components of the Choux Paste? Easy and cheap: eggs, flour, sugar and salt, milk and/or water and butter. Each ingredient has a different role in the pastry, and it’s important to know what they bring to the recipe:

  • Water: brings crispness to the Eclair, some people uses just water to avoid Eclairs to soften before filling. I prefer to use a mixture of water and milk because milk has great properties too.

  • Milk: gives that beautiful brown colour and its proteins help with the structure;

  • Salt: helps avoiding cracks, so it’s key to preserve the steam inside the Eclair and also to make the pastry look even more perfect;

  • Flour: the proteins in it will give the Eclair its shape and help retain the steam inside. The more proteins the flour has, the better will be the shape of it. Whenever possible, bread flour is recommended in favour of all-purpose flour. You can also add some protein additives to all-purpose flour which will help;

  • Eggs: the key ingredient that will provide the steam to make the Eclairs rise. That, and of course proteins again: they will help to preserve the shape and avoid the Eclairs from collapsing. Always make sure that your eggs are at room temperature before adding them.

  • Butter: gives moisture and flavour, always use unsalted butter;

  • Sugar: helps with flavour and colour (actually the sugars inside the rest of the ingredients, like milk, will help too).


Kitchen Utensils and Tools

You don’t need a lot of specific tools to make Eclairs. One thing though is for me a requirement: an open star piping tip. Look for something like this or this. The shape of the tip is actually really important to help shaping the Eclair. Each teeth of the tip will create a ridge, and they will help your Eclair to expand while holding its shape. If you they don’t have these ridges they will probably crack.

Another useful thing to have is a stand mixer… although you can always mix your eggs by hand, the process is much more tedious and heavy.

In my list follows a kitchen thermometer. It’s not essential but it can help measuring the right point at which you can stop cooking your dough, which depending on the pan you are using might not be that easy to detect.

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My Choux Pastry Recipe


  • Author: Jesi Fera
  • Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
  • Yield: between 1418 Eclairs depending on the size 1x

Description

Hope you enjoy it, and try as many variations to it as you can. It’s the best way to learn!


Ingredients

Scale
  • 140ml whole milk

  • 140ml water

  • 120g butter

  • 10g sugar

  • 34g salt

  • 175g bread flour or all-purpose flour with protein additive (sifted)

  • 4 or 5 eggs


Instructions

Before starting

  1. Preheat your oven at 400 F (200 ºC);

  2. Take the eggs out of the fridge so they are at room temperature when needed;

  3. Prepare a piece of parchment paper the size of a big rectangular baking pan.

Dough

  1. Heat milk, water, butter, salt and sugar in a saucepan until the butter is boiling over the liquids;

  2. Remove the saucepan from heat and incorporate the flour all at once;

  3. Put the pan back in the stove, and start stirring with a wooden spoon without stopping, keep mixing while the flour starts cooking, there shouldn’t be any clumps of flour in the mixture;

  4. To know when your dough is ready you have at least 2 different methods:

    1. The first one is to check the bottom of your pan, there should be a think coat of dough sticked to it. This does not always work because some pans are non-stick;

    2. In that case, go for the scientific way: use a thermometer! It should read 170 F (75 ºC) when ready.

  5. Once the dough is ready, remove it from the heat and let it cool. It will be ready for the eggs as soon as it reaches 60 ºC or less. You can also check the temp by inserting your hands in the dough. It should feel warm but not as much to burn your hands;

  6. The eggs can be incorporated and mixed either by hand or using a stand mixer. I have to say that I’ve tried both and doing it by hand is tough, but it’s a great exercise to understand how the texture of your dough is. In both cases always add 1 egg at a time and keep mixing until the egg is completely incorporated and the dough is homogeneous again. Don’t try to add all eggs at once and always check consistency before adding the next egg;

  7. Note on consistency: This recipe calls for 4 eggs, but given that eggs can vary in size please check the consistency before adding each extra egg. The method I use is to grab a small portion of dough between my thumb and index fingerprints and start separating them, the dough should break after separating them 2cm or more. If it breaks before it’s too runny.

Piping

  1. Use a large rectangular baking pan or cookie sheet and line it with parchment paper. A good idea to avoid the paper sliding, is to stick it with a bit of dough to the baking pan;

  2. Using the open star tip, fill up a piping bag up to ⅔ of it with the finished dough.

  3. Pipe each Eclair without stopping, making the tips of the Eclair larger than the body. Each Eclair should be approx. 12 cm tall and 3 cm wide. Give a space of 4cm between Eclairs;

Baking

Before: you can sprinkle some icing sugar on top to have a nice caramelized effect in the oven. Also an egg-wash is possible but it might crack the Eclair, so its more risky in my opinion.

  1. Start the baking at 400 F (200 ºC) and bake for 20 min approximately

  2. Lower the temperature of the oven to 300F (160 ºC) and bake until the Eclairs are completely brown. If the colour is too light you should continue baking. I am not giving times at this point because each oven is different and you should learn the exact point of your cooking by looking at the pastries;

  3. Don’t open the oven any time before you think the Eclairs are ready!

  4. Remove them from the oven and let them cool completely before filling and glazing.

Filling

I am not adding the recipe for the filling in this post to avoid it being extra-long. Any recipe for custard will work really well: chocolate, vanilla, any fruity or nutty custard, there are a million options. I’ll post the recipe of my Raspberry Custard very soon. In the meantime the internet is your friend!

My recommended methods for filling are 2:

  • Closed Eclair: in this method the filling won’t be seen until the Eclair is cut. Make 3 small holes in the bottom part of your eclair, they should be big enough to fit a small piping tip

  • Open-face eclair: cut your Eclair almost in half lengthwise (leave the last part joint). With a piping tip of your preference (the ones with shapes look really cute on this type of Eclairs) fill you eclair so the filling can be perfectly seen but does not overflow. I don’t have a picture for this but here you have one, you get the idea.

Notes

  • Extra ideas: before piping you can split the dough in parts, add different food gel colours to each (1 or 2 drops each at most) and mix until colour is uniform.
  • Sources and Inspiration: My sources are diverse, I’ve first learnt how to make Choux Paste at cooking school and then I made a specific Eclair workshop in my city where I’ve learnt most of the things I used in this blog post. But I also like to enrich myself with other views, and I usually read lots of blogs and recipes before baking, trying to find the best ingredient balance and the one that looks more reasonable. In my search I found IronWhisk blog which has a great Eclairs post which I highly recommend to reading. Also I like to read how high-end pastry chefs cook their best creations, like Christophe Adam which owns the brand L’ Eclair de Génie with several stores around the world. There are plenty of chefs out there and most of them have recipes of eclairs in their repertoire. I recommend reading some of them to get ideas for flavours and fillings.
  • Prep Time: 70 min
  • Cook Time: 20 min
  • Category: Pastries
  • Method: Oven
  • Cuisine: French
Categories:
The Pantry by the Sea
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